Nonrun full-fashioned hosiery and method of making same



July 30, 1935. H. v. w. SCOTT 2,009,565

NONRUN FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Dec. 5,. 1952 4 Sheets-Sheet l li'gl. a.

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NONRUN FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Dec 5, 1952 4 Sheets-Sheet /8 lnveniai": a Hereri VW 8003i,

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H. V. W. SCOTT NONRUN FULL'FASHIONED HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Dec.

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July 30, 1935. Hfv. w. scdTT 2,009,565

NONRUN FULL FAS HIONED HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Des 3. 5, 1952 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Invenior: HeWZus-Wi? VW 800 ii,

dia /139s Patented July 30, 1935 NONRUN FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Herbert V. W. Scott, Glen Ridge, N. J assignorto Van Raalte Company, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application December 5, 1932, Serial No. 645,721

6 Claims.

This invention relates to full-fashioned nonrun or strongly resistant full-fashioned hosiery and to the method of making the same.

In order that the principle of the invention may readily be understood, I have disclosed in the accompanying drawings one form of such hosiery and will set forth the best mode known to me for making the same.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the completed blank after the same has been trimmed or cut away, the foot and toe having been knitted onto the leg and foot top portion of the blank after trimming;

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the completed stock- 111g;

Fig. 3 is a plan view ofthe stocking blank down to the toe made in accordance with my invention herein claimed;

Fig. 4 is a plan view upon a smaller scale of the lower part of the stocking blank .of Fig. 1 just after the same has been trimmed;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the stocking blank after the toe and foot have been knitted thereon.

Fig. 6 is a similar view of the blank of Fig. 3 as it depends from the needles; and

Figs. 7 and 8 are enlarged details to show the structure of the fabric composed of the main knitting thread and a warp thread for each needle wale and confined thereto.

In my co-pending application Ser. No. 628,391 filed Aug. 11, 1932, now Patent No. 1,978,410, Oct. 30, 1934, I have disclosed a full fashioned stocking that is of a non-run or strongly run-resistant character rendered so by the introduction of a separate warp thread into each needle wale and confined thereto. The stocking herein disclosed is of the same type, but differs therefrom particularly in that the stocking blank'is knitted of the full width down to the commencement of the toe instead of being knitted of a lesser width beginning at a point at the termination of the leg narrowings. Otherwise stated, in the stockings disclosed and claimed in this application the knitting is continued of the full width from the commencement of the welt down to the toe, all the warp threads being therefore retained in action down to the commencement of the toe, and the surplus parts at the sides of the blank below the leg narrowings which, as hereinafter fully described, are knitted with interior main or weft yarn, as, for example, cotton are subsequentlytrimmed away, the stocking blank in its thus trimmed condition being transferred to a footer where the sides 01' the foot and the toe are knitted thereorto.

By making the stocking in this manner the procedure is expedited, and the stocking although trimmed as described is of a full fashioned type.

Referring more particularly to that form of the invention shown in Figs. 1 to 5 inclusive, the stocking blank is represented at I, the usual welt being represented at 2'. The stocking is knitted on any suitable type of full fashioned machine as for example a Reading, a Schubert & Salzer or a Lieberknecht. Whatever be the type of machine employed, (and my invention is'not limited to the use of any particular type of machine), it is preferably one having a large number of sections whereon the stocking legs are knitted, to be thereafter transferred to a footer.

The knitting is commenced upon the full set of needles as, for example, to make a blank fourteen inches in width, and the knitting is continued upon the entire bank or set of needles, as represented in Fig. 3 from the commencement of the welt down to the line 33 of Fig. 3, which line corresponds with the end of the top of the foot of the English type, to which type of foot my invention is, however, not limited.

The warp threads are introduced from the commencement of the knitting substantially in the manner indicated in my said Patent No. 1,978,410, a warp thread being introduced into substantially each needle wale by substantially the means shown in said patent, namely, by the provision of a warp thread finger for each needle, excepting that all the warp threads for one section may be and desirably are supported upon a single warp beam and none of the warp thread fingers is thrown out of action during the knitting of that part of the entire blank that is shown in Fig. 3. Thus the fabric is of the type shown in Figs. 7 and-8, wherein the main knitting thread is represented at 4 and the individual warp threads at 5, the said Figures 7 and 8 representing the front and the back respectively of the non-run fabric which is characteristic of my invention.

When the point is reached where the narrowings should be made, namely, at the line 6-6' of Fig. 3, I-introduce the narrowing points into action as fully described in my said Patent No. 1,978,410, thereby transferring stitches or loops composed of the main knitting thread and the contained warp threads, thus providing openings 1 along two inclined lines and narrowing marks 8 along two inclined lines parallel with the openings 1'. Each of said openings 1' is crossed by a warp thread in the manner fully illustrated in Fig. 5 of my said ap lication Serial No. 628,391

and the said warp threads continue in their respective needle wales, all as fully explained and illustrated in my said patent.

, The entire stocking blank shown in Fig. 3 (excepting the part to be trimmed away) is desirably of silk including the main knitting thread and all the warp threads but the main knitting or weft threads are made of cotton or some material less expensive than silk.

The high splice areas 99 are knitted in in the usual manner, as by employing two additional thread guides, the traverses of which are automatically controlled and varied and the heel tabs ID-IO are knitted in the usual manner as by additional thread guides similarly controlled or the same as those which knitted the reinforcement of the high splice areas 99. However, the narrowing points which are employed in fashioning the heel tabs, transfer inwardly stitches composed of the main thread and warp threads, so as to provide the openings ll similar to the openings 1' and the narrowing marks l2 similar to the narrowing marks 8'. After the heel tabs ID are knitted the knitting is continued as before down to the line 3-3 upon the entire bank of needles.

By knitting the blank as thus described there are provided two lateral areas l3'--l3' which must be trimmed away. In Fig. 4 I have represented the blank I, or rather the lower part thereof, as having been trimmed away commencing at the top of the inclined lines of openings 7', through said openings down to the lower end of said line of openings and then along parallel lines 14- to the heel tabs Ill-l0 and then along parallel lines Iii-I5 which bound the sides of the top of the foot of the stocking, to theline 33.

The heel tabs I0 are also trimmed along their lines of openings ll-ll. The stocking blank then has the form shown in Fig. 4.

Y I then transfer the blank as thus trimmed, onto a footer, and knit onto the said blank the side and bottom pieces l6-|6, they being knitted onto the turned-out heel tabs in the usual manner, as indicated in Fig. 5. I also knit the toe portion I! and provide narrowings therein l8, as usual.

After the stocking blank has been knitted as described and the side and bottom portions I 6 of the foot and the toe I! have been knitted thereonto as represented in Fig. 1, the stocking is seamed or sewed along the two lines of openings I and along the bottom of the foot at I 9 to secure together the two side or bottom portions l6, and at the toe, so as to produce a completely full-fashioned stocking as illustrated in Fig. 2 and which is of a non-run or strongly runresistant character throughout the leg and the top of the foot. The fabric of the instep is sewed or seamed along the lines l5 to the side pieces Iii-I6 and the edges of ,said pieces Iii-l6 are themselves sewed or seamed together. Within the scope of the inventionthe fabric constituting the side and sole portions of the foot and the toe may also be of a non-run character, rendered so by the introduction of warp threads, one into each needle wale, in the manner disclosed in Figs. 7 and 8.

Instead of knitting the entire blank, so far as the main knitting thread is concerned, I traverse the main knitting thread carrier (using silk) down to the line 6', 6, and from that point down to a line 20 at the termination of the line of narrowings 8', 8, and openings 1', I, I shorten correspondingly and preferably automatically the traverse of the main thread carrier with its silk and at the same time introduce two additional carriers, one at each edge supplied with a cheaper material as cotton and therewith knit all the parts represented at l3, I3 which thereafter are to be cut away. Said two additional carriers are therefore traversed for increasing distances, as the traverses of the main thread carrierdecrease and inversely proportioned thereto.

It will be undestood that in performing this operation the cotton thread of the subsidiary thread carriers and the silk thread of the main thread carrier are interlocked or interengaged to form inclined suture seams in a manner understood in the knitting of" full fashioned hosiery where a split sole is provided, and as disclosed, for example, in the smaller catalog of the Textile Machine Works, Reading, Penn., copyrighted 1920, at pages 51, et seq. In this or any other suitable manner, I complete the blank as represented in Fig. 3 and thereafter trim the same as already described with reference to Fig. 4, and then knit the sides or bottom of the foot and the toe so as to complete the fabric as represented in Fig. 5.

In Fig. 6, I have represented as hanging from the needles a fabric of the character herein described and have there represented a thread carrier 2| to supply the silk thread for all portions of the fabric that are not to be trimmed away, and subsidiary carriers 22, 23, which are to supply the cotton yarns, namely, to the parts l3, l3 that are subsequently to be trimmed away.

Notwithstanding the fact that the stocking blank is trimmed, it is provided with effective edges for seaming throughout the trimmed portion thereof, inasmuch as the fabric is of a runproof or strongly run-resistant character throughout, owing to the incorporation of the warp threads as described. The stocking is also of a full fashioned character.

Having thus described one illustrative embodiment of the invention and the method of producing the article of my invention, I desire it to be understood that although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense and not for purposes of limitation, the scope of the invention being set forth .in the following claims.

I claim:

1. A run-proof or run-resistant plain knit fullfashioned stocking blank comprising a series of warp threads knitted into and extending lengthwise of the needle wales and of a main or body thread of silk throughout the upper part of the leg, inside the leg narrowings and in the instep portion and the top of the foot, and of cotton in those portions outside the leg narrowings and in longitudinal continuation of those portions of the blank outside the angle portion and the instep or top of the foot, said blank being of the same width throughout.

2. A plain-knit, full-fashioned stocking blank comprising a main or body thread of silk throughout the upper part of the leg inside the leg narrowings and in the instep portion and the top of the foot, and of cotton in those portions outside the leg narrowings and in longitudinal continuation of those portions of the blank outsidethe ankle portion and the instep or top of the foot,

said bank being of the same width throughout.

3. A run-proof or run-resistant plain-knit fullfashioned stocking blank comprising a main or body thread of one (i. e. a superior) character throughout an upper part of the leg, inside the leg narrowings and in the instep portion and the top of the foot, and of cheaper character in those portions that are to be trimmed away, being outside the leg narrowings and in longitudinal continuation of those portions of the blank outside the ankle portion and the instep or top of the foot, said blank having a series of warp threads knitted into and extending lengthwise the needle wales, said stocking blank including the parts to be trimmed away having stitches composed of the main weft thread and of contained warp threads laterally transferred at the leg narrowings and thereby providing inclined lines of openings paralleling the said narrowings, said blank being knitted of the full width down to the toe for subsequent trimming whereby the value of the material in the parts that are to be trimmed away is lessened.

4. A run-proof or run-resistant plain-knit full-fashioned stocking blank comprising a main or body thread of one (i. e. a superior) character throughout an upper part of the leg, inside the leg narrowings and in the instep portion and the top of the foot, and of cheaper character in those portions outside the leg narrowings and in longitudinal continuation of those portions of the blank outside the ankle portion and the instep or top of the foot, said blank having a. series of warp threads knitted into and extending lengthwise the respective needle wales, said stocking blank including the parts to be trimmed away, having stitches composed of the main or weft thread and of contained warp threads laterally transferred at the leg narrowings and thereby providing inclined lines of openings paralleling said narrowings and presenting formations permitting the efiective subsequent trimming away of the material outside of said openings and including all those portions that are knitted with weft threads of inferior character.

5. A plain-knit full-fashioned stocking blank comprising a main or body thread of one (i. e.

a superior) character throughout at least the upper part of the leg and inside the leg narrowings, and of cheaper character in those portions outside the leg narrowings, said blank having knitted into substantially each needle wale thereof a separate warp thread, said stocking blank including the parts to be trimmed away, having stitches composed of the said main thread and of contained warp threads laterally transferred at the leg narrowings, and thereby providing inclined lines of openings paralleling said narrowings and presenting'formations permitting the effective subsequent trimming away of the material outside of the said openings and including all those portions that are knitted with weft threads of inferior character.

6. That method of knitting a run-proof or strongly run-resistant fiat-knit stocking which includes knitting the blank for at least the leg of the stocking by forming loops course by course from a main body thread of silk inside the leg narrowings and ofsubsidiary threads of an inferior character at either side of said silk thread, outside the leg narrowings and in longitudinal continuation of those portions of the blank outside the ankle portion, and from a separate warp thread for substantially each needle wale from edge to edge of said blank; continuing the knitting of said blank of the full width down to the toe of the stocking for subsequent trimming, but fashioning said stocking by laterally transferring stitches each comprising a loop of the first mentioned body thread and a loop of the warp thread of each wale from which lateral transfer is made; shortening the traverse of the main body thread in accordance with the said lateral transfers and at the same time correspondingly increasing inwardly the traverses of the subsidiary carriers for the body threads of inferior character and subsequently trimming away the stitches of said inferior subsidiary body threads. I

HERBERT V. W. SCOTT. 

